Frequently Asked Questions

FAQ

SECTION 1: MANUFACTURED & MODULAR HOME BASICS

1. What is the exact technical difference between a manufactured home and a modular home?

The core difference comes down to the building code and guidelines they are engineered to meet:

• Manufactured Homes: Built strictly to federal HUD guidelines or better.

• Modular Homes: Engineered to meet the exact same local, state, and site-built International Residential Code (IRC) guidelines as a traditional house.

• Note: The term "mobile home" refers to factory-built housing constructed before federal HUD codes went into effect in 1976. While they haven't been built since then, some pre-1976 models are still available for purchase on the secondary market.

2. Are modern manufactured homes actually built as well as traditional, site-built houses?

Quality varies heavily depending on the builder and tier you choose. Construction standards range from baseline models built just to meet minimum HUD quality requirements, all the way up to premium tiers that are engineered better than 95% of standard site-built houses. This quality gap is especially noticeable when you compare a brand-new manufactured home to an older, traditional site-built house.

3. What are the hidden costs of buying a manufactured home that aren't included in the base price sticker?

The term "base price" is highly misleading, and virtually no one ever buys a purely base-price home. When planning your budget, you must be prepared for the final cost to exceed that baseline number. Additional expenses include upgraded cosmetic finishes, material quality variations, and critical transportation and installation costs.

4. Can I completely customize the floor plan of a new home from the factory, or am I stuck with the layout on the brochure?

This is highly builder-specific. While entry-level factories stick to rigid layouts to keep production costs low, there are premium, design-forward builders that offer almost total layout customization and design freedom.

5. How far will a dealership typically deliver and install a new manufactured home?

Delivery radiuses differ between dealers. In our case, we limit our service radius to a 250 to 300-mile zone. Traveling further than that severely hampers our ability to quickly assist our customers with service, warranty work, or other localized setup needs.

6. What is the difference between a single-wide, double-wide, and triple-wide home beyond just the size?

Each term simply indicates the total number of factory-built sections used to construct the final layout:

• Single-wides: Built as one complete section, ranging from 12x40 feet up to 18x86 feet.

• Multi-section homes (Double/Triple): Constructed from multiple separate sections joined together on site. These individual sections are typically 14 or 16 feet wide and can reach up to 86 feet in length depending on the builder.

7. How long does the entire process take, from the day I order a custom home to the day I get the keys?

Timelines are heavily dependent on weather, economic factors, and the complexity of your specific build:

• Display Models: If you buy a lot model with cash, it can occasionally be delivered as fast as the next day.

• Custom Factory Builds: Expect 2 weeks to 5 months for the factory build time, followed by an additional 1 week to 2 months for delivery, setup, and final move-in. Weather delays and local site variables can extend these timelines further.

8. Do manufactured homes hold their resale value over time, or do they depreciate like a vehicle?

They absolutely hold value and appreciate. Real-world real estate data shows manufactured homes that were sold specifically to be uninstalled and moved to a new site nearly doubled in price over just a 10 to 15-year period. Recent major industry studies have even shown that manufactured and modular homes have outpaced standard site-built homes in their overall appreciation rate.

9. What specific site preparation needs to happen on my land before the home can be delivered?

Site prep rules depend entirely on your specific state regulations. Here in Louisiana, you are legally required to build a certified dirt pad first. Your foundation and pad leveling must be completed before delivery, while standard utilities, electricity, and sewer hookups are installed immediately afterward.

10. What are Wind Zones, and how do I know if a home is legally rated for the weather risks in my specific area?

Wind Zones are federally designated geographic regions rated on a scale of 1, 2, or 3, outlining the severe weather risks for your county or parish. Each step up in zone rating requires a home to be built with increasing levels of structural tie-downs, heavy-duty strapping, and reinforced wind protection. The closer your land is to the Gulf Coast, the more likely you are to legally require a Wind Zone 3 home.

SECTION 2: FINANCING, LAND, & FOUNDATION

11. Can I get a standard 30-year mortgage for a manufactured home, or do I need a special type of loan?

Yes, absolutely. Buyers have access to the exact same major loan programs available for traditional site-built houses. You can secure Conventional, FHA, Rural Development (USDA), and VA loans for both manufactured and modular homes, allowing you to stretch your financing out over a standard 30-year mortgage.

12. What is a "Chattel Loan," and how does it differ from a traditional home mortgage?

A chattel loan is structured as a personal property loan rather than a real estate mortgage, though it features a longer repayment timeframe. Because it only finances the home itself and not the land, it skips the lengthy processes of land appraisals, surveys, or detailed deed title searches, which can speed up your closing. This structure gives you the flexibility to place the home on land you already own, land owned by a family member, or a rented lot inside a community.

13. Can I buy a manufactured home if I don't own land yet, or do I need to secure the property first?

This depends entirely on your personal priorities:

• Location Priority: If your primary goal is finding the perfect location, neighborhood, or school zone, it is best to secure the land first.

• Home Priority: If your main focus is maximizing your budget on the specific size, layout, and custom options of the house, it is smarter to choose the home first and then locate land that matches its dimensional requirements.

14. What credit score do I need to realistically qualify for financing on a new manufactured home?

While a higher credit score opens up better interest rates, there are financing pathways available for almost every tier. Real-world approval breakdowns typically follow these guidelines:

• Under 500 Score: Approvals are possible, but lenders often require a substantial down payment of around 35%.

• 500 – 550 Score: Typically requires a 20% down payment.

• 550 – 600 Score: Typically requires a 10% down payment.

• 600+ Score: Can qualify for down payments as low as 5%.

• Note: Government-backed programs like FHA, VA, and Rural Development (RD) operate under their own specific credit and down payment matrices, which can offer even lower entry requirements.

15. What is a "Land-Home Package," and is it a smart choice for a first-time buyer?

A Land-Home Package is a financing structure where you bundle the cost of the raw land, the home construction, and all local site development costs into one single loan. This is an incredibly smart choice for first-time buyers because it consolidates your expenses into one monthly note instead of two separate payments, while spreading the infrastructure costs across a more affordable 20 to 30-year mortgage layout.

16. Does a manufactured home have to sit on a permanent concrete foundation, or are blocks and piers acceptable?

Regulations vary by state and lender. Here in Louisiana, state law strictly prohibits setting a home directly on raw ground. Every home requires a foundation consisting of engineered piers or concrete blocks. While these blocks can be placed directly on a certified dirt pad, you can also place them on top of a poured concrete pad. Additionally, specific financing programs may require concrete runners, and full concrete slabs remain an excellent option.

17. Can a manufactured home be placed inside city limits, or do local zoning laws restrict where they can go?

Zoning laws and local restrictions are critical factors to research before buying. Municipalities frequently implement local ordinances regulating the acceptable size, age, or specific structural types of manufactured or modular housing allowed within city limits. Furthermore, private subdivisions and Homeowners Associations (HOAs) outside of city boundaries often enforce their own strict property restrictions.

18. How does the appraisal process work for a manufactured home compared to a stick-built home?

The appraisal process functions similarly to traditional real estate, but lenders enforce strict matching guidelines: a manufactured home must be compared directly to other HUD-coded homes. While this process is usually simple, it can occasionally hit a snag if the local area forces the appraiser to use an older, poorly maintained manufactured home as their baseline comparison. In the vast majority of cases, finding clear, accurate local comps is a straightforward process.

19. What kind of down payment is typically required to buy a new multi-section home?

Your down payment depends entirely on your loan type and property equity:

• Zero Down Payment: Possible if you already own your land outright and have enough equity, or if you qualify for specialized Rural Development (RD) or VA loan programs.

• 3.5% Down Payment: The standard baseline requirement for FHA-backed financing.

• 5%, 10%, or 20% Down Payment: Standard for conventional lending or specific situations involving higher debt-to-income (DTI) ratios or lower credit tiers.

20. Can I use my existing land as my down payment instead of using cash?

Yes, absolutely. Lenders view land equity very favorably. Using the land you already own as your down payment instantly builds equity into your overall loan-to-value (LTV) ratio, proving to the bank that you are a serious, low-risk borrower without requiring you to drain your cash reserves.

Section 3: Factory Upgrades, Warranties, & Maintenance

21. What is the typical factory warranty on a new manufactured home, and what does it actually cover?

Warranty structures vary by factory, so you should always ask for written clarification, but standard industry expectations generally follow this breakdown:

• Cosmetic Finishes: Typically covered for the first 30 days.

• Whole-Home Coverage: Generaly covers everything for 1 full year.

• Structural Warranty: Typically covers major structural components for 5 years.

• Appliances & Water Heaters: Covered via their individual manufacturers for 1 year.

• Air Conditioning: Often utilizes a stair-step warranty (1, 2, 5, or 10 years) where parts and labor coverage gradually diminish over time.

• Siding: Premium siding options frequently carry a 50-year or limited lifetime warranty.

22. Are factory-extended warranties worth the extra money, or are they a gimmick?

If the extended warranty is offered directly by the factory, it can absolutely pay off over time if you utilize it. However, if it is an aftermarket warranty offered by a third-party company, I highly recommend researching their specific customer satisfaction ratings and claim-approval history before spending the extra money.

23. What are the absolute most important structural upgrades I should pay for when ordering a home from the factory?

If your budget allows, prioritizing hidden structural integrity over temporary cosmetic upgrades will pay off for decades. Look for these specific factory upgrades:

• 2x4 Interior Walls at 16" On-Center (OC): Offers massive peace of mind, gives the home a solid feel, and makes hanging heavy artwork or TVs much easier.

• 16" OC Exterior Walls & Floor Joists: Increases overall structural rigidity.

• OSB Exterior Wrap: Adds a rigid layer of protection under your siding rather than standard house wrap.

• Upgraded Insulation Tiers: Lowers your lifetime utility costs immediately.

24. How do I maintain a manufactured home to make sure it lasts for decades?

Long-term durability comes down to a strict maintenance schedule and rapid response:

• Follow the Schedule: Execute all manufacturer-recommended monthly, quarterly, and annual maintenance checks.

• Act Fast on Leaks: Never let a small plumbing or roof issue go unanswered. If you spot a leak, address and repair it immediately before moisture damages the subfloor or wall cavities.

• Manage Your Surroundings: Cut down dead or overhanging tree limbs near the roofline to mitigate severe storm risks.

25. Can a manufactured home be uninstalled and moved to a different piece of property later on?

Yes, absolutely. These homes are explicitly engineered with transportable frames and can be moved later in life. However, you must keep two things in mind: minor cosmetic cracking in the drywall is completely normal and expected during a secondary move, and hiring a highly licensed, reputable installer is absolutely critical to ensure the home is re-leveled and secured safely.

26. What are the common signs that a manufactured home is settling unevenly, and how do I fix it?

Doors rubbing against their frames, windows sticking, or cracks appearing in the marriage line are common indicators of settling. You can easily hire a professional leveling company to come out and re-adjust the piers. To prevent this from happening, regularly inspect your dirt pad to ensure it isn't eroding, and make sure rainwater is draining completely away from the home instead of pooling underneath the skirting.

27. Are manufactured homes energy-efficient, or will my electric bills be higher than a stick-built home?

Modern HUD regulations enforce strict energy-efficiency standards, making brand-new manufactured homes more efficient than many older, traditional houses. To maximize your savings, we always upgrade our builds to the maximum insulation tier allowed by the factory. Spending a little extra on energy upgrades upfront completely pays off in the long run through drastically reduced monthly utility notes.

28. What kind of roof is best for a manufactured home: shingles or metal?

This ultimately comes down to personal design preference and the architectural style of the home. However, there is a practical limitation to keep in mind: if you order a home featuring a higher-pitched, hinged roof design, factories often do not offer a metal roof as an available option.

29. Can I add a standard wooden porch, carport, or garage onto my manufactured home after it is set up?

Yes, you can, but it must be constructed as a completely self-supporting structure. Your porch or carport must stand entirely on its own footings. If you tie the addition directly into the home for structural support, you force the manufactured frame to carry weight it was never engineered to hold, risking severe structural damage during wind storms.